Özet:

Thanks to the developments in the textile and ready-to-wear market, the expectations of individuals from garments have changed and the concept of wearing comfort has gained importance. This concept has led to the replacement of fashionable clothing design and the production of good quality garments with comfortable clothing design and production. Wearing comfort is a subjective concept meaning that a person feels comfortable in a garment. Although the concept of feeling comfortable may vary from person to person, clothes that protect us against external factors such as heat, cold, and wind, and cause no annoyance such as itching, pain, stinging, and are suitable for our social environment, make us feel comfortable both psychologically and physiologically. The fact that the human body is in contact with any textile and ready-to-wear product all day and night indicates the importance and necessity of wearing comfort. Due to reasons such as today's consumer trends, fast competition conditions, and the wish of creating a difference in clothing, the textile and ready-to-wear market has rapidly turned to produce comfortable clothing. It may be seen that both in Turkey and all over the world, some studies to increase wearing comfort have been carried out. These efforts to increase comfort also push manufacturers to find new raw materials and production methods. While investigating the effects of these innovations on wearing comfort, various physical properties of woven fabrics, which constitute an important part of ready-to-wear products, should be emphasized. It is known that a classic jacket is an important part of business life, daily life, and special occasions. However, it is an unloved and mostly avoided garment for male consumers because of the feeling of discomfort in addition to its weight and restriction of movement. For this reason, this study aims to examine the materials used in the production of classic jackets in terms of wearing comfort. To find out how the auxiliary materials used in the production phase of the classic jackets affect the comfort properties together with the physical properties of the fabric, the thermal resistance, water vapor resistance, and air permeability measurements were performed together with the fabric, fabric-interlining, and fabric- interlining-lining, the results were compared, and the optimum comfort values were determined. These measurements aim to find the optimum value for 100% wool fabrics. Sheared dirty wool tagged from sheep is called “fleece”. However, in the broad sense, fleece refers to all the hairs that are removed from the animals in form of shirts during tagging and that can be twisted and threaded. In fabric production, washed and cleaned form of fleece is used [1]. Wool is the tagged, washed, and cleaned form of the fleece shirt covering the sheep. However, the hairs obtained from the backs of some other animals are also called wool [2]. Animal fiber, whose basic building block is protein, is preferred in valuable worsted suits and knitted outerwear [3] due to its positive properties such as lightness, soft-touch, warmth, and ease of ironing [4]. As the most used fabric in men's classical clothing in terms of comfort features, wool is chosen to be studied.

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