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Erzurum Ve Bayburt Yöresi Erkek Giysileri Ve Bir Zanaatkâr Abacı Ustasının Üretim Hikâyesi
2022
Journal:  
Social Mentality and Researcher Thinkers Journal
Author:  
Abstract:

Giyim kuşam bir toplumun sosyal ve kültürel yaşam içerisindeki gelenek ve göreneklerini gösteren maddi kültür öğeleridir. Anadolu'nun her bölgesi kendine özgü giyim kuşam biçimlerine sahiptir. Bu çeşitlilik zengin kültür varlığının göstergesidir. Ancak farklı bölgelerde olmalarına karşın yakın illerin giyimlerinde biçimsel ve kulanım benzerlikleri görülmektedir. Bu duruma örnek olarak Erzurum ve Bayburt yöresi erkek giysilerini vermek mümkündür. Bu iki il farklı bölgelerde olmalarına karşın kültürel özellikleri benzerdir. Bu benzerlik erkek giysilerine de yansımıştır. Günümüzde farklı nedenlere bağlı olarak yöresel giysiler değişikliğe uğrayarak biçim ve fonksiyonlarını değiştirmeye ve günlük kullanımdan kalkmaya başlamıştır.

Erzurum ve Bayburt yöresinde gazeki, gömlek, yelek, kuşak ve zığva (zıvga) gibi parçalardan oluşan erkek giysilerinin kesim, süsleme ve terzilik aşamaları aynı olup sadece renk farklılığı görülmektedir. Bu giysiler yörede "abacı" adı verilen esnaflar tarafından dikilmektedir. Yoğun el işçiliği gerektirdiği, zaman ve maliyetinin yüksek olması nedeniyle bu alanda çalışan terziler neredeyse yok denecek kadar azdır. Gömlek üzerine giyilerek kullanılan “çift kapaklı açık yakalı yeleklerin ” ve pantolon olarak kullanılan “zığva (zıvga)” yöreye ait teknik ve süsleme açısından özel bir üretim yöntemi bulunmaktadır.

Bu çalışma;  Erzurum ve Bayburt yöresi erkek halk giyiminin önemli bir giysisi olan "çift kapaklı yeleklerin" ve “zığvanın geçmiş ve günümüzdeki yöresel özelliklerinin belirlenmesi,  Yusuf Yurttaş tarafından üretimi yapılan bu giysinin kesim, dikim, süsleme ve terzilik uygulamalarının kayıt altına alınarak belgelendirilmesi amacıyla planlanmış ve yürütülmüştür.  Çalışma maddi ve manevi pek çok kültürel değere sahip olan Türk halk giyim kuşamının, belgelenmesi, kültürel mirasın korunması, yaşatılması, tanıtılması, geleceğe aktarılması, ilgili literatüre katkıda bulunarak kaynak oluşturması ve bu konuda yapılan ilk çalışma olması açısından önemlidir.

 

Keywords:

Erzurum and Bayburt area Men's clothes and a craftsmanship master's production story
2022
Author:  
Abstract:

Clothes are material cultural elements that show the traditions and habits of a society in the social and cultural life. Each region of Anadolu has its own clothing shapes. This diversity is an indicator of the rich cultural existence. But despite being in different areas, the clothes of the nearby provinces are similar to the form and use. As an example of this situation, it is possible to give Erzurum and Bayburt area male clothes. Although these two provinces are in different regions, their cultural characteristics are similar. This similarity is reflected in male clothes. Today, due to various reasons, local clothes have begun to change their shapes and functions and start to rise from everyday use.

In the area of Erzurum and Bayburt, the cutting, decoration and scattering stages of men's clothes consisting of pieces such as gazeki, shirt, jacket, generation and zığva (fluid) are the same and only color differences are seen. These clothes are in place. The Abbey “The name is made by the names. Due to the high time and cost, which requires intense handworking, the interests that work in this area are almost enough to disappear. Used on the shirt. “Double-covered open-covered jackets” used as a pants.” and the wicked.” There is a specific method of production in terms of local technical and decorative.

This study; Erzurum and Bayburt are an important clothes of male public clothes in the area. " The double-covered jackets and the “covered The determination of the local characteristics of the past and present is planned and carried out in order to be certified by the registration of the cutting, planting, decoration and decoration applications of this clothes produced by the Yusuf Citizen.  The work is important in terms of documentation, conservation, preservation, promotion, transfer to the future of the Turkish people's clothing, which has many cultural and spiritual values, contributing to the relevant literature, creating resources and being the first work done on this.

Keywords:

Erzurum and Bayburt Region Men's Clothes and The Production Story Of A Craftsman Abaci
2022
Author:  
Abstract:

Clothing is the material culture items that show the traditions and customs of a society in the social and cultural life. Each region of Anatolia has its own unique clothing styles. This diversity is an indicator of rich cultural existence. However, although they are in different regions, there are formal and usage similarities in the clothing of the nearby provinces. As an example for this situation, it is possible to give men's clothes in Erzurum and Bayburt regions. Although these two provinces are in different regions, their cultural characteristics are similar. This similarity is also reflected in men's clothing. Today, depending on different reasons, local clothes have begun to change, changing their form and functions, and getting out of daily use.

In Erzurum and Bayburt regions, the cutting, ornamentation and tailoring stages of men's clothes, which consist of pieces such as gazeki, shirt, vest, belt and zıgva (zıvga), are the same, but only color differences are seen. These clothes are sewn by the tradesmen called "abacı" in the region. Tailors working in this field are almost non-existent, as it requires intensive handwork, time and cost. There is a special production method in terms of local technique and ornamentation of "double capped open collar vests" used on shirts and "zigva" (zıvga) used as trousers.

This work; It was planned and carried out to document the past and limited local examination of capped vests and "pitch", which is an important interest in men's folk wear in Erzurum and Bayburt regions, cutting this target made by Yusuf Yurttaş, sewing, planned and recording targeting of tailoring practices. It is important that Turkish design, which has many tangible and intangible values, should be documented, promote the product, keep it alive, create the first reference in the literature and have this character.

 

Keywords:

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Social Mentality and Researcher Thinkers Journal

Field :   Sosyal, Beşeri ve İdari Bilimler

Journal Type :   Uluslararası

Metrics
Article : 1.471
Cite : 387
2023 Impact : 0.042
Social Mentality and Researcher Thinkers Journal